Dispatch #10

Expedición Monte Tyree - Antartica

Dispatches

Dec 09

Published at 08:05

Aquí esta el despacho de Damien en Inglés, más abajito hay otro en español escrito por Pachi y Camilo.

Hi all,

Since the last dispatch we've moved camp closer to Epperly and done some climbs to try and acclimatise. One of the first things we did was recce the bottom part of our route on the big south face of Epperly. It's not too steep but quite sustained and exposed, and certainly difficult up higher.

Several days ago the girls did a direct route on the north face of Knutzen
Peak (3373m), which lies just opposite our camp. Yesterday I climbed it
myself while the others went up over the old pass onto the Vinson normal route and ran up the new fixed-rope route for some acclimatisation. The old pass is a lot icier than it used to be and requires a lot of care. The weather was bad, so they didn't go too far toward the summit, but did run into a lot of the Vinson climbers, operating out of Low Camp, including Christian Stangl, preparing for a speed ascent, no doubt. Apparently the girls are already famous down here, so the Vinson people were a bit surprised to see them pop over the pass out of nowhere. We'd climbed Knutzen back in Jan 05 (then known as Jaca Peak) but it gives great views of the whole west side of Vinson from it's steep rocky little summit.

There's currently big lenticular wind clouds on the summits of Epperly,
Shinn and Vinson that we can see from our sleeping bags, so no climbing high today and we're just resting. And hoping to get on to Epperly as soon as possible.

Images:
- Pachi, Camilo and Jarmila beneath the south face of Epperly on the left
- Jarmila and Pachi's route on the north face of Knutzen Peak
- Jarmila just beneath the old pass, headed to Vinson

Remember you can see some updates at www.expenews.com, www.thepoles.com and some background at www.antarcticmountains.com

D.

Name: Epperly Camp
Elevation: 2352 m
Latitude: 78° 28’ 12” South
Longitude: 85° 58’ 34” West

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